The Drama: When a Modern Chef Wakes Up as a Joseon Queen

You know that nightmare where you’re trapped somewhere you don’t belong? Now imagine waking up—not in the wrong bed, not in the wrong city—but in the wrong century. And the wrong body.

That’s the premise of Mr. Queen (철인왕후), the 2020 tvN drama that became one of Korea’s highest-rated cable series. Jang Bong-hwan, an arrogant but brilliant Blue House chef in modern Seoul, finds his soul transported into the body of Queen Kim So-yong in the Joseon Dynasty. Played with electric charisma by Shin Hye-sun, this queen doesn’t embroider or recite poetry. She cooks.

And when she cooks, the entire palace takes notice.

The drama walks a razor line between comedy and political thriller, but its beating heart is food. Bong-hwan’s modern culinary knowledge clashes with—and eventually transforms—the rigid traditions of the royal kitchen. Nowhere is this collision more explosive than when the queen takes on kimjang, the great communal kimchi-making tradition. While the court expects a demure royal consort, they get a chef who understands fermentation at a molecular level, who knows exactly how much salt draws moisture from napa cabbage without killing the lactobacillus that makes kimchi alive.

In a palace full of politics and poison, kimchi becomes the queen’s quiet rebellion.


The History of Kimchi

What Is Kimchi?

Kimchi (김치) is Korea’s most iconic food—a fermented vegetable dish, most commonly made with napa cabbage (baechu) and Korean red pepper flakes (gochugaru). But calling kimchi a “side dish” is like calling the ocean a puddle. There are over 200 documented varieties of kimchi, each tied to a specific region, season, or family tradition.

The word kimchi derives from chimchae (沈菜), meaning “submerged vegetables”—a reference to the brining process that begins every batch.

From Ancient Preservation to National Identity

Kimchi’s history stretches back over 2,000 years to the Three Kingdoms period (37 BC – 668 AD), when Koreans first began salting and fermenting vegetables to survive harsh winters. The original kimchi looked nothing like what we know today—no red pepper, no garlic paste. It was pale, mild, and purely about preservation.

EraDevelopment
Three Kingdoms (37 BC – 668 AD)Salt-fermented vegetables, no chili peppers
Goryeo Dynasty (918 – 1392)Addition of garlic, ginger, green onions
Joseon Dynasty (1392 – 1897)Chili peppers introduced from the Americas via Japan (17th century)
Japanese Colonial Period (1910 – 1945)Kimchi preserved as act of cultural resistance
Modern EraUNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (2013)
2020Mr. Queen reignites global interest in traditional kimchi-making

The transformation happened in the 17th century when chili peppers, brought to Asia through Portuguese traders, were adopted into Korean cuisine. This single ingredient changed kimchi forever—turning it from a pale preserved vegetable into the fiery, crimson staple we recognize today.

Kimjang: More Than Making Kimchi

Kimjang (김장) is the annual communal kimchi-making event, traditionally held in late autumn before the first frost. In Mr. Queen, this event becomes a pivotal plot point—a moment where the queen must prove herself to the court through Korea’s most sacred culinary tradition.

In 2013, UNESCO inscribed kimjang as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Not the food itself—the act of making it together. Families and neighbors gather, sometimes making hundreds of heads of cabbage in a single day. Grandmothers teach daughters-in-law the family’s secret ratios. Children stuff leaves for the first time.

Mr. Queen’s Bong-hwan, trapped in Queen So-yong’s body, understands something the Joseon court doesn’t: kimchi isn’t just tradition. It’s living science. The lactobacillus bacteria, the precise salt concentration, the fermentation temperature—these are variables a trained chef can manipulate. And manipulate he does.

The Science Queen So-yong Couldn’t Explain

What makes kimchi remarkable from a food science perspective:

1. Lacto-Fermentation Unlike vinegar pickling, kimchi relies on lactobacillus bacteria naturally present on the cabbage. These bacteria convert sugars into lactic acid, creating that distinctive sour tang while preserving the vegetables for months.

2. The Salt Ratio Too much salt kills the beneficial bacteria. Too little allows harmful microbes to thrive. The traditional Korean method—roughly 3% salt by weight—hits the precise balance that favors lactobacillus over everything else.

3. Temperature-Dependent Flavor Fermented at room temperature for 1-2 days, then refrigerated, kimchi develops complex flavors over weeks and months. Young kimchi (geotjeori) tastes fresh and bright. Aged kimchi (mugeunji) becomes deeply sour and funky—perfect for stews and fried rice.


The Recipe: Traditional Napa Cabbage Kimchi (Tongbaechu-Kimchi)

Ingredients

For Brining the Cabbage

  • 1 large napa cabbage (about 2 kg / 4.5 lbs)
  • 1/2 cup coarse sea salt (천일염)
  • Water for soaking

For the Porridge

  • 1 cup water
  • Sweet rice flour (찹쌀가루, 2 tablespoons) Amazon →
  • 1 tablespoon sugar

For the Kimchi Paste

  • Korean red pepper flakes (고추가루, 1 cup — use coarse flakes) Amazon →
  • Fish sauce (멸치액젓, 3 tablespoons) Amazon →
  • Fermented salted shrimp (새우젓, 3 tablespoons, finely chopped) Amazon →
  • 8 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon ginger, minced
  • 1 medium onion, finely grated

For the Filling Vegetables

  • 1 medium Korean radish (무), julienned
  • 4-5 green onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 1/2 cup Asian chives (부추), optional

Equipment

  • Large basin or tub for brining
  • Kitchen gloves (the chili will stain and burn)
  • Onggi (Korean fermentation pot) (옹기, traditional but optional) Amazon →
  • Airtight container or glass jar for storage

Video Tutorial

Video by Maangchi - The legendary Korean cooking teacher (31M+ views)

Instructions

Step 1: Cut and Salt the Cabbage Cut the napa cabbage lengthwise into quarters. Rinse under cold water. Sprinkle coarse sea salt between each leaf, concentrating more salt on the thicker white parts near the stem. Place in a large basin and let sit for 6-8 hours (or overnight), flipping halfway through. The cabbage should bend easily without snapping when ready.

Step 2: Make the Rice Porridge In a small saucepan, combine water and sweet rice flour. Stir over medium heat until it thickens into a paste (about 5 minutes). Add sugar, stir to dissolve, and let cool completely. This porridge feeds the lactobacillus bacteria during fermentation.

Step 3: Prepare the Kimchi Paste In a large bowl, combine the cooled porridge with gochugaru, fish sauce, fermented shrimp, garlic, ginger, and grated onion. Mix thoroughly. Add julienned radish, green onions, and chives. Toss until all vegetables are coated in the vivid red paste.

Step 4: Rinse and Drain Rinse the salted cabbage three times under cold running water to remove excess salt. Gently squeeze out water and place cut-side down on a rack to drain for 30 minutes.

Step 5: Apply the Paste Wearing gloves, spread the kimchi paste between every leaf of each cabbage quarter. Work from the outer leaves inward, ensuring even coverage. Don’t be shy—every leaf needs paste.

Step 6: Pack and Store Fold each quarter into a tight bundle, wrapping the outer leaf around the filling. Pack tightly into your container, pressing down to remove air pockets. Leave at least 1 inch of headspace—the kimchi will expand as it ferments and release liquid.

Step 7: Ferment Leave at room temperature for 1-2 days. You’ll see small bubbles forming—that’s the fermentation working. Taste it: when it’s slightly tangy but still fresh, transfer to the refrigerator. The kimchi will continue to develop flavor slowly over the coming weeks.


FAQ

How long does homemade kimchi last?

Properly stored in the refrigerator, kimchi lasts for months—even up to a year. It won’t go bad; it just gets more sour over time. Koreans actually prefer well-aged kimchi (mugeunji) for cooking dishes like kimchi-jjigae and kimchi-bokkeumbap. Fresh kimchi is best for eating as a side dish within the first few weeks.

Why do my hands burn when making kimchi?

Korean red pepper flakes (gochugaru) contain capsaicin, which causes a burning sensation on skin. Always wear kitchen gloves when handling kimchi paste. If you forget, wash hands immediately with cold water and vegetable oil—not hot water, which opens pores and makes it worse.

Can I make kimchi without fish sauce or shrimp?

Yes. For a vegetarian version, replace fish sauce with soy sauce and use kelp stock for umami depth. Some Korean Buddhist temple kimchi traditions have been vegan for centuries. The fermentation still works perfectly—the lactobacillus bacteria don’t need fish products to do their job.

What’s the difference between gochugaru and gochujang?

Gochugaru (고추가루) is dried red pepper flakes—coarse, slightly sweet, and smoky. It’s what gives kimchi its characteristic texture and color. Gochujang (고추장) is fermented red pepper paste—thick, sweet, and concentrated. They’re not interchangeable. Kimchi requires gochugaru.

Why is my kimchi too salty?

You likely didn’t rinse the cabbage thoroughly enough after brining. The cabbage needs three full rinses under cold running water. Next time, taste a piece of the rinsed cabbage before applying paste—it should taste pleasantly salty, like a well-seasoned salad. If it’s too salty at that point, rinse again.

How do I know when fermentation is done?

There’s no single “done” point—it’s a spectrum. After 1-2 days at room temperature, taste it. If you see tiny bubbles when you press the kimchi down and it tastes slightly tangy, the initial fermentation is active. Move it to the fridge to slow the process. Many Koreans eat kimchi at every stage, from fresh to deeply aged.

Does Mr. Queen actually show kimchi-making?

Mr. Queen features numerous cooking scenes where the queen uses modern culinary techniques in the Joseon royal kitchen. The drama’s food scenes are among the most detailed and authentic in K-Drama history, with kimchi preparation being a significant storyline that connects to both palace politics and cultural identity.


Make It Tonight

Here’s the truth about kimchi: it’s not complicated. It’s patient. You salt cabbage. You mix a paste. You spread it leaf by leaf. Then you wait. The bacteria do the rest—the same bacteria that Korean families have been cultivating for over two thousand years.

In Mr. Queen, Bong-hwan discovers that the greatest cuisine isn’t about molecular gastronomy or Michelin stars. It’s about understanding ingredients so deeply that you can coax flavor out of patience and salt and time. Kimchi is exactly that kind of cooking. No shortcuts. No tricks. Just knowledge passed down through generations, from one pair of red-stained hands to the next.

Start with one cabbage. Make mistakes. Taste it every day and notice how it changes. That’s not just cooking—that’s what Queen So-yong learned in the palace kitchen. The best food isn’t made by following instructions perfectly. It’s made by paying attention.

오늘 밤, 철인왕후 정주행하면서 직접 담근 김치와 함께하는 건 어떨까요?


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Hero image: “Korean.food-Kimchi-01” by KOCIS (Korean Culture and Information Service), CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Part of our K-Drama Kitchen series—cooking the dishes that made us hungry while watching.