The Drama: Running Back to Save First Love
Lovely Runner (선재 업고 튀어) wasn’t just a drama—it was a phenomenon that swept across Asia in 2024.
Im Sol (Kim Hye-yoon) is a devoted fan of Ryu Sun-jae (Byeon Woo-seok), a K-pop idol who saved her life when she was at her lowest. When Sun-jae dies tragically, Sol is given a miraculous chance to travel back in time to 2008—to save him the way he once saved her.
What makes Lovely Runner extraordinary isn’t just its time-travel premise. It’s the small details: the cassette tapes, the flip phones, and yes—the food. Set in the early 2000s, the drama is soaked in nostalgia, and nothing captures Korean winter nostalgia quite like bungeoppang.
When young Sol and Sun-jae share bungeoppang on a cold winter street, steam rising from the golden fish-shaped pastries, it’s more than a snack. It’s a moment frozen in time—innocent, warm, and achingly sweet. Like first love itself.
The History of Bungeoppang
What Is Bungeoppang?
Bungeoppang (붕어빵) literally translates to “crucian carp bread”—bungeo (붕어) meaning crucian carp and ppang (빵) meaning bread. These fish-shaped pastries are filled with sweet red bean paste (pat, 팥) and cooked in a special iron mold until golden and crispy on the outside, soft and warm inside.
Despite the name, there’s no fish in bungeoppang. The fish shape is purely decorative, a design borrowed from the Japanese taiyaki (たい焼き) which uses the sea bream shape.
From Japan to Korean Winter Streets
The story of bungeoppang begins in Japan. Taiyaki was invented in Tokyo around 1909 by a confectioner named Seijiro Kanbe. The sea bream (tai) was considered an auspicious fish in Japan, too expensive for common people to eat. The fish-shaped pastry democratized luck—everyone could afford “fish.”
| Era | Development |
|---|---|
| 1909 | Taiyaki invented in Tokyo, Japan |
| 1930s | Fish-shaped pastries introduced to Korea during Japanese occupation |
| 1950s-60s | Bungeoppang becomes popular Korean street food |
| Present | Iconic winter snack sold nationwide from November to March |
Korea adopted the concept but made it their own. The shape changed to the humbler crucian carp (common in Korean rivers), and the name became bungeoppang. By the 1960s and 70s, bungeoppang carts became fixtures of Korean winter streets.
Why Bungeoppang Means Winter
In Korea, bungeoppang is inseparable from winter. From November to March, you’ll find bungeoppang-jip (붕어빵집) and street carts appearing like clockwork. The sight of steam rising from iron molds, the smell of batter crisping, the sound of vendors calling “bungeoppang! bungeoppang!”—this is the soundtrack of Korean winter.
There’s a saying in Korea: “You can’t buy bungeoppang in summer.” It’s not a rule—it’s just that bungeoppang without cold weather is like hot chocolate without the chill. The magic requires context.
The Bungeoppang Debate: Head or Tail First?
Ask any Korean which part of the bungeoppang they eat first, and you’ll spark a surprisingly passionate debate:
- Head first (머리부터): Some believe eating the head first is proper etiquette
- Tail first (꼬리부터): Others argue the tail has more crispy batter
- Middle first (배부터): Pragmatists go straight for where the filling is thickest
There’s no right answer. But everyone has an opinion.
The Recipe: Sol and Sun-jae’s Bungeoppang
Making bungeoppang at home requires a special mold, but once you have one, these pastries are surprisingly simple. The key is getting the batter thin and crispy while the filling stays warm and sweet.
Ingredients
For the Batter:
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1 egg
- 3/4 cup milk
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
For the Filling:
- Sweet red bean paste (danpatso) (about 1 cup) Amazon →
Alternative Fillings:
- Custard cream
- Nutella or chocolate
- Sweet potato paste
- Cream cheese
Equipment
- Bungeoppang mold (fish-shaped waffle iron) (붕어빵 틀) Amazon →
- Mixing bowl
- Whisk
- Ladle or squeeze bottle
- Pastry brush (for oiling)
Video Tutorial
Video by Maangchi - The most trusted voice in Korean home cooking
Instructions
Step 1: Make the Batter In a mixing bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. In a separate bowl, beat the egg, then add milk and vegetable oil. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and whisk until smooth. The batter should be thin and pourable—similar to pancake batter. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
Step 2: Prepare the Filling If using store-bought red bean paste, it’s ready to use. If making from scratch, ensure it’s thick enough to hold its shape. Roll the paste into small oval balls (about 1 tablespoon each) for easier filling.
Step 3: Heat the Mold Place your bungeoppang mold on medium heat. If using a stovetop mold, heat both sides. When hot, brush lightly with vegetable oil.
Step 4: Pour the First Layer Pour a thin layer of batter into each fish mold—just enough to coat the bottom. Tilt the mold to spread the batter evenly into the fins and tail.
Step 5: Add the Filling Place a ball of red bean paste in the center of each fish. Don’t overfill—leave room for the top layer of batter to seal everything in.
Step 6: Add the Top Layer Pour another thin layer of batter over the filling, covering it completely. Close the mold firmly.
Step 7: Cook Both Sides Cook for 2-3 minutes on one side, then flip and cook for another 2-3 minutes. The bungeoppang is ready when it’s golden brown and releases easily from the mold.
Step 8: Serve Hot Remove immediately and serve while hot. The outside should be crispy, the inside soft, and the filling warm and sweet. Best eaten on a cold day, standing on a street corner, with someone you love.
FAQ
What does bungeoppang taste like?
The batter is slightly sweet and crispy on the outside, soft and cake-like inside. The traditional red bean filling (patso) is sweet with a slightly earthy flavor from the azuki beans. Modern variations include custard (sweeter, creamier) and other fillings.
Why is bungeoppang fish-shaped?
The fish shape was borrowed from Japanese taiyaki, where the sea bream (tai) is considered lucky. When Korea adopted the snack, they changed it to the crucian carp (bungeo), a common freshwater fish in Korea. The shape has no culinary purpose—it’s purely traditional and whimsical.
Can I make bungeoppang without the special mold?
Unfortunately, the mold is essential for the authentic fish shape and proper cooking. However, you can use the same batter and filling in a regular waffle iron or even as small pancakes. The taste will be similar, but you’ll lose the iconic shape.
What’s the difference between bungeoppang and taiyaki?
Bungeoppang and taiyaki are very similar—both are fish-shaped pastries with sweet red bean filling. The main differences are the fish type (crucian carp vs. sea bream), minor batter variations, and cultural context. Taiyaki is also commonly filled with custard in Japan.
Why is bungeoppang only sold in winter?
Bungeoppang is culturally tied to winter in Korea. The hot, crispy pastry is most enjoyable as a warming snack in cold weather. While you can technically make it year-round, vendors traditionally only operate from November to March.
How did bungeoppang appear in Lovely Runner?
In Lovely Runner, bungeoppang appears as a nostalgic element representing the 2008 setting and young romance. When Im Sol travels back in time, sharing bungeoppang with young Sun-jae symbolizes innocent first love—warm, sweet, and fleeting like the snack itself on a winter day.
Where can I buy bungeoppang?
In Korea, bungeoppang is sold at street carts, market stalls, and small shops throughout winter. Outside Korea, look for Korean bakeries or street food vendors at Korean cultural festivals. The frozen version is also available at some Korean grocery stores.
Make It Tonight
Lovely Runner made us believe in second chances. In running back through time to save someone precious. In the small moments—a shared snack, a warm hand, a winter day—that become the foundation of love.
Bungeoppang is that kind of food. It’s not fancy. It won’t win awards. But on a cold night, fresh from the iron, steam rising between two people who are just beginning to understand what they mean to each other—it’s everything.
Make these tonight. Share them with someone. Watch the winter work its magic.
오늘 밤, 선재 업고 튀어 정주행하면서 직접 만든 붕어빵과 함께하는 건 어떨까요?
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Hero image: “Making Taiyaki Japanese Fish-shaped Snack” by Airam Dato-on via Pexels
Part of our K-Drama Kitchen series—cooking the dishes that made us hungry while watching.
